Delayed Posting

Sorry to those of you who came here expecting updates on my journey. I wasn't able to access a computer for most of my trip. I will be adding the details as I recover and get the energy to post. Please check back soon. I will retrodate the posts to coincide with the dates the events occurred.

Day 9: Hualien

Interior: Kai's House. My bike showing no signs of fatigue.

Kai put me up in her apartment. She had two finicky dogs that always bark if you look at them wrong. The next day my girlfriend met up with me in to spend some time. I was still in a stupor. Limping and sore I drove around with her, enjoying every minute with her. I was originally supposed to meet her in Taichung, but logistically, it made more sense for her to come visit me in Hualien.I knew I would soon be returning home to Maui and our time together was short.
At this point, I was still planning to ride from Hualien to Yilan, then from Yilan to Taipei. But as things played out, I ended up taking the train back to Taipei, a move I knew I would later regret.
The weather and mood in Hualien was grand. We rented a moped. Finally riding on something other than my bike and my enpained buttocks.
Ahh, undeserved speed. You learn to detest and resent all those cars and mopeders zooming by you, carelessly going up hills with no thought as to the amount of effort it takes when self powered. A festering hatred slow-boiled into a fine point, manifest by glares at "them." I had begun to think everyone was lazy, but then I realized I was the only biker on the road and that I was the different one. But here I was riding a moped and loving the "free ride."
We stayed in a nice bed and breakfast owned by a parent of Kai's student. it looked like a small luxury suite that should have cost way more than it did. The next day, we drove around Hualien, initially intending to go to Taroko Gorge. But an unexpected incident set us back. The previous evening, Kai had taken one of her dogs to the vet and it ran away. She spent the night and morning looking for it. When we met up with her at about 12 or so, we continued to help her. With no luck, we set off to Taroko, but didnt get far when we decided it was too far. We headed to the Seven Star Beach area instead. I felt sad. In about two weeks I would be leaving her forever. I tried to saturate myself in the moment and enjoy her every smile and remark.
Kai mentioned that the road from Hualien to Yilan was quite dangerous. With my weakening strength and will, I was inclined to believe her and hang up my lycra. The back of my head said, "You will forever regret not finishing the remaining distance..." The front said, "Your ankles hurt, your ass hurts, spend time with your girl, Kai said it's dangerous, you're scared, let's not die yet." I said, "What time does the train leave?"

Day 8: ZhiBen to Hualien

Hualien: 175Km

Let's start this post with a math equation. 180km + 13hours + mountains + darkness = The worst day of my life. This was the exact formula that made the ride from Zhiben to Hualien my darkest day yet. I awoke at 9:30 in the morning to drizzling and grey skies. I was in no mood to be riding in the rain, but wasn't totally stoked about staying in this no nothing town either. I was axious to get going, but waited for the rain to stop. I sat and turned on the TV. I happened upon the Superbowl. After not watching a single game the entire season, I flip to the Superbowl in the middle of my trip around Taiwan. I sat and watched the first half while I packed and prepared for my inevitable journey. The rain slowed and stopped so I mentally got myself together and headed on the road. It was about 11:00AM; I knew it was going to be a long trip, but for some odd reason, I thought it would be easy.

A sunflower valley

The first half was easy. Flat and gradual rolling hills made it a pleasant ride. The weather was sunny but not hot. I'd stop and rest. I wasn't totally sure where I would be staying that night, so I called Kai, a friends former girlfriend and a friend to me, to see about hotels. Again, I was offered to stay at her place, which was really cool of her. I told her I would call her again as I neared Hualien. I called my parents to tell them I was okay and was in the middle of a long day. It was comforting to talk to them. I pressed on, thinking, "How much longer is it?"

A landmark restaurant

At about 5 or 6PM the sun faded to a dull glow near the horizon. The temperature dropped, but I was continually moving and so didn't feel it much. I was riding along cliffs that dropped off 50 or more feet into water or onto sand and rocks. Sometimes there was little to prevent a devastating fall except a few concrete blocks and will. Cars would drive by slowly, almost sensing my nerves.
It got dark fast, and really dark. I had a headlamp that I fastened to the back of my bike to alert cars that I existed, and I had a front light that dimly lit the way. For what I thought were the most dangerous parts, there were no lights, pure blackness. I kept on telling myself, "Just keep going. If you stop, you won't get there."
I was fatigued, hungry, beginning to get cold, and feared the mysteries of the dark. The road never ended.
At about 9PM I stopped at a 7-11 to gather myself and eat. Dinner consisted of two hot dogs, an ovaltine, and bread. I see a sign that says Hualien is about 50km away. I rested for 30 minutes and as I was readying to go, a car stops. A guy gets out and starts to talk about riding and tells me that he also has ridden around the island. I ask him if it is much further from this point to Hualien. He laughs and says I should get a room here. "But I have a friend waiting for me in Hualien," I say. I then ask him if the road is mountainous. Again he laughs. "How do you measure this?" he says. His friend says it flattens out after about 30km.
These 30km would turn out to be the worst of the entire trip, and were gyrated into my memory forever.
Up until this point, I haven't needed to go to the smallest gear on my 27-speed bike. For many parts of this last leg, I was spinning on this smallest of gears, moving my legs fast, but barely moving at all laterally. Uphills so steep I thought I would fall backwards in blinding darkness. Fortunately the moon, in her shining glory, aided my trek. My cognition was beginning to become blurry, no longer able to think clearly, but knowing to just follow the road. I thought to myself, "This is the greatest challenge I have ever faced, and with no end in sight, I must keep on going."
At about 11:30PM I stopped at a Police station to ask where I was. they told me I wasn't too far from Hualien and the remaining road was fairly flat. I called Kai to get directions to her place, and it didn't seem to hard to find. I got back on the road and looked for the landmarks she mentioned. Ocean Park: check. Long bridge: check. Turn left at Smile gas station: check. Go until I get to a 7-11: check. Look for ZhongZheng road: ? Where is it? I spent a good hour asking for directions and finally talking to a wise man that could direct me where to go. I should have known that in Kai's directions, turn left actually meant turn right. Silly me. So after the longest day of my life and getting lost, I finally met up with Kai, at 1AM. Thats 13hrs on the road. I was in such a supernatural state that although I knew I was tired, I couldn't sleep. I called Taurus and he told me that I should take a walk to ease the transition of exercise to rest. Shortly after, I passed out.

Day 7: Hengchen to Zhiben

The wind blew hard, pushing me back as I started out at 10AM from Max's house. Every crank of the pedals took great effort, to combat the gusty onslaught. "It's gonna be another long day," I thought. Nothing to do, but keep going. The ride, I knew, was going to be a hard one. I had gotten advice from Max about which route to take. I had two options: long route with hills, or short route with hills. Wasn't too hard a decision.
The journey up to Chechang was mainly flat, but with the aforementioned headwinds, made my pace much slower. Once on the 199, however, the breeze slacked off, but I was now in hilly terrain. Crossing the mountainous terrain was fun at times, exhausting at others, but overall, it was scenic and cool. I passed quite a few other fellow "trekkers" along the way. We exchanged the now common nod or wave.
The shade was a welcome break from the beating sun, the wind no longer a adverse factor. Riding through the mountains was a beautiful experience. The serenity of moving on bike, climbing and cruising, in and out of shadows, past forests and fields made this area quite magical. When the 199 turned into the 9, I took a break at what appeared to be a common meeting place. I saw other riders, and a building that people signed to say, "I was here." From there, it was downhill, some of the best I've ever ridden. Coasting, passing cars, such a thrilling ride after a grueling morning and early afternoon. It flattened out after about 30 minutes and then I was riding along the eastern shore of Taiwan. This part was a bit depressing. No buildings, just a long lonely road, a vast grey ocean adjacent. No where to go but forward, I pedaled on in hopes of getting somewhere soon. My plan was to make it to Taidong, which at this point was still 4 hours away.
Then I ran into more of what the east is famous for, mountains. Slow going, it was looking more and more like I wasn't making it to Taidong. Somewhere in a no name town, I ran into a group of college students making their way on bikes also. There was about 10 of them, one on moped in back. We played leap frog for a bit, me passing them, then they passing me as I rested. I finally stopped with them and talked to them for a while. They had started that morning at 7AM from Pingdong and were also heading around the island. They told me they were going to stop at Zhiben, for some hot spring action. I said that sounded nice. I wanted to get into a hot spring, and felt I would deserve it that night. It began getting dark, which always give me a sense of urgency and nacent fear welling up inside, causing me to pedal faster. I don't like riding up (or down) in the dark. I finally got to Zhiben at about 8 or 9PM and haggled a room for USD$15. It was a decent sized room, brightly lit, with a nice bath to soak my strangely un aching body. After bathing, I decided to walk about and see what this town had to offer. Not much I found, and ended up buying some stuff from ubiquitous 7-11, and some fried chicken from a street vendor. I headed back home, ate and watched a bit of TV. I headed to bed, in the expectation of another long early day.

Day 5 &6: Kending (HengChun)

I left GaoXiung at a fairly early 11AM, this being due to the fact that I had no company and was able to move unadulterated. Once again I was blessed with sunny weather, sparsely-trafficked roads, and long stretches of flat land. The weather would hold out, but the flat part turned hilly as I got closer to HengChun. I am always stupidly deceived by maps. The map always shows the road as being flat, but I as I found many a time, was far from. Even if I had a contour map, it wouldn’t have properly displayed the magnitude of riding up the smallest mountain or hill. Then again, accompanying every up is a down, which is rewarding but never seems long or fulfilling enough as the uphill part would make you believe. "Georgia","serif";">I was headed to my friend Max’s place, the Ipanema Beach House. I had stayed at his place two years ago while hitchhiking around the island. I had met up with a friend George on that trip and we had met some of his friends and stayed at the beach house. It is in HengChun, often confused (also by myself) with KenDing. Max was a surfer who had lived in Brazil and other places before he decided to settle down in HengChun and open a bed and breakfast (they are called so in Taiwan, but there is no breakfast). He had long dread-like locks and spoke with the energy of the waves he rides, playful and full of joy. Upon returning this time, he had a military cut, and an expecting wife, along with his surf-inspired personality. He said with the recent release of the movie, Cape No. 7, a Taiwanese film shot in the vicinity, business has been good. This area had been popular with the beach going crowds and surfers looking to get away from the smog-filled cities. The movie opened the area to many other kinds of people wanting to see some of the places in the movie.
My plan was to stay in HengChun for two days, this being the most southern part and a marker as the half-way point of my trip. I also wanted time for rest and relaxation on my trip. As I mentioned before, during this trip, I always felt rushed to get somewhere, meet someone, stay out of the dark, or get started. Now would be the time to forget about the schedule for a while and just chill on the beach. It was so nice to have a break. A whole day of rest was all, but it was enough.

Day 4: To GaoXiung

A river in TaiNan

I left Sandra’s house at about 2PM. Clear skies, sun ahead of me, guiding this solo biker. It amazed me how far I had come, and had not yet thought of stopping. It also amazed me how boring it can be to ride a bike for hours on end, never feeling like you’re getting anywhere, but going on the faith that if you keep on going, you will eventually get somewhere.

Road to GaoXiung

At some point, you forget your legs are moving, autonomous circles revolving around the hub again and again; there is no pain, only a dull numbness reminding you that your legs are still attached; thirst, like hunger, is relative, and food is no longer thought of as pleasure, but necessity. Like a car gets no joy when gas is added, so too, the body is no better off when food is consumed, excepting the caloric intake that keeps it going. Food is chosen not by taste, but by a careful balance of subconscious nutritional factors to keep the body and mind in a state of functionality and satiation. This seems parallel to the Buddhist thought towards food. In all simplicity, food is to fuel our bodies to barely stave off death. Once this is achieved, food serves no other purpose; no consideration of flavor, temperature, spice, appearance, presentation, balance, etc. that French chefs live by.

I don’t have a whole lot to say about GaoXiung, seeing as how I got lost in the outskirts of the city, passed the train station, which was my initial destination, and circled around back towards the city center, all under the veil of night. What I can say is that the streets are broad and roomy, sidewalks are actually made for walking (not parked cars), and the night market (I’m not sure which one) is packed at 10:00PM.

I arrived at a hotel, the front desk saying that they were full for the night, being New Years and all. Undaunted, I hit the streets and ran into a fellow biker who apparently knew the area well enough to direct me towards what would be my final resting spot. It was about 9PM by the time I actually got there and settled. It felt good to be out of the dark and into a hot bath. This was my first night alone and a bit lonely, but endurable.

My Room in GaoXiung

After the heat soak, I decided to walk about, albeit carefully, on my injured legs, and find some diversion to keep my mind off being alone. In the streets were throngs of people milling about, scuttling to and fro, buying/eating/drinking/watching/talking/standing/walking, an environment only a night market can create. I bought a cup of watermelon juice, a perfect invention for thirst on hot summer days, and waddled through the night market in search of something to eat. The night market, like most in Taiwan, was centered around shops and vendors selling clothes, jewelry, accessories, and the like. Food wasn’t much to be found. I eventually wound up in a foreign owned Mexican restaurant. And against my philosophical digression about food above, I enjoyed the hell out of it. This was some of the best Mexican food I’ve had in a while, and whether this was due to my uncommonly stressed system, recent increase in dosages of Taiwanese food, or was genuinely good, I couldn’t tell you. But I can tell you that the chicken enchilada I had with rice and beans all topped with cheese and what the chef said was a new experimental sauce, was a culinary highlight of my trip, if only for the fact that it was something I hadn’t tasted in a while. Screw esoteric food-haters. This food was pleasure. If I drank alcohol, an icy Corona would have made it so much greater—but substituted apple juice served well enough. I read Walden and reveled in the aftermath of an enchilada slaughter. I think he would have been disappointed in me for my attainment of gratuity from food. I don’t care.

Soon after, I headed back “home” and decided to call it a night. I would have another long ride to KenDing the next day.

Day 5: KenDing

Ipanema Beach House

I left GaoXiung at a fairly early 11AM, this being due to the fact that I had no company and was able to move unadulterated. Once again I was blessed with sunny weather, sparsely-trafficked roads, and long stretches of flat land. The weather would hold out, but the flat part turned hilly as I got closer to HengChun. I am always stupidly deceived by maps. The map always shows the road as being flat, but I as I found many a time, was far from. Even if I had a contour map, it wouldn’t have properly displayed the magnitude of riding up the smallest mountain or hill. Then again, accompanying every up is a down, which is rewarding but never seems long or fulfilling enough as the uphill part would make you believe.
I was headed to my friend Max’s place, the Ipanema Beach House. I had stayed at his place two years ago while hitchhiking around the island. I had met up with a friend George on that trip and we had met some of his friends and stayed at the beach house. It is in HengChun, often confused (also by myself) with KenDing.

Backside of Ipanema Beach House

Max was a surfer who had lived in Brazil and other places before he decided to settle down in HengChun and open a bed and breakfast (they are called so in Taiwan, but there is no breakfast). He had long dread-like locks and spoke with the energy of the waves he rides, playful and full of joy. Upon returning this time, he had a military cut, and an expecting wife, along with his surf-inspired personality. He said with the recent release of the movie, Cape No. 7, a Taiwanese film shot in the vicinity, business has been good. This area had been popular with the beach going crowds and surfers looking to get away from the smog-filled cities. The movie opened the area to many other kinds of people wanting to see some of the places in the movie.
My plan was to stay in HengChun for two days, this being the most southern part and a marker as the half-way point of my trip. I also wanted time for rest and relaxation on my trip. As I mentioned before, during this trip, I always felt rushed to get somewhere, meet someone, stay out of the dark, or get started. Now would be the time to forget about the schedule for a while and just chill on the beach.

Day 4: Morning in TaiNan

A recurring theme of my trip seemed to be: leave late, ride in the dark, arrive late. Not a very good way to see a country. I guess I am a procrastinator at heart, even with my vacation time.
I awake clear headed, the sun casting a warm glow from the balcony window. I hobble downstairs to see everyone having already eaten, going about the day in the relax mode that a vacation engenders. Fruit and coffee are had; I have a sandwich and milk tea. Throughout the morning I am in back and forth conversations with my friends who are supposed to come down from Taipei and meet me in GaoXiung. I can hear their hesitancy on the phone, as I try to convince them that the previous day's record breaking traffic jams won't continue today. I give them the guilt trip. Eventually, they give me the no trip. They say that they don't want to spend the day sitting in their car, and I agree with them, sorta.
Sandra must have mentioned my interest in her father's sculpting, so he offered to take us to the previously mentioned temple to show us his art. I accept gratefully. The temple, as with many Taiwanese temples, are a colorful explosion of reds, yellows, blues, greens and gold, intricate dragons gnarling their way through weaves of smoke, reverent statues guarded by depictions of gods, stories molded into the reliefs, shaped by the hands of masters as if they were the gods themselves. He explained to Sandra the history of the temple and she diligently translated it to me. The temple was a national treasure, due the fact that it housed to works of a world renown Taiwanese artist, his works also found at the Louvre in Paris. A tourist, I took the opportunity to snap some shots of the works that never seemed so important until now, taking in the great history that places like these emit. Her father being a master also, the curator (?) let us into a section that is usually gated off. We were allowed to see up close the statues of gods, one said to be about 800 years old. To point at one of them was considered rude and bad luck, so I quickly learned as I pointed out the 800 yr. old artifact.

Day 4: To GaoXiung

A river in TaiNan city (I think)

I left Sandra’s house at about 2PM. Clear skies, sun ahead, guiding this solo biker. It amazed me how far I had come, and had not yet thought of stopping. It also amazed me how boring it can be to ride a bike for hours on end, never feeling like you’re getting anywhere, but going on the faith that if you keep on going, you will eventually get somewhere.

Road to GaoXiung

At some point, you forget your legs are moving, autonomous circles revolving around the hub again and again; there is no pain, only a dull numbness reminding you that your legs are still attached; thirst, like hunger, is relative, and food is no longer thought of as pleasure, but necessity. Like a car gets no joy when gas is added, so too, the body is no better off when food is consumed, excepting the caloric intake that keeps it going. Food is chosen not by taste, but by a careful balance of subconscious nutritional factors to keep the body and mind in a state of functionality and satiation. This seems parallel to the Buddhist thought towards food. In all simplicity, food is to fuel our bodies to barely stave off death. Once this is achieved, food serves no other purpose; no consideration of flavor, temperature, spice, appearance, presentation, balance, etc. that French chefs live by.

I don’t have a whole lot to say about GaoXiung, seeing as how I got lost in the outskirts of the city, passed the train station which was my initial destination, and circled around back towards the city center, all under the veil of night. What I can say is that the streets are broad and roomy, sidewalks are actually made for walking (not parked cars), and the night market (I’m not sure which one) is packed at 10:00PM.

I arrived at a hotel, the front desk saying that they were full for the night, being New Years and all. Undaunted, I hit the streets and ran into a fellow biker who apparently knew the area well enough to direct me towards what would be my final resting spot. It was about 9PM by the time I actually got there and settled. It felt good to be out of the dark and into a hot bath. This was my first night alone and a bit lonely, but endurable.

My room in GaoXiung

After the heat soak, I decided to walk about, albeit carefully, on my injured legs, and find some diversion to keep my mind off being alone. In the streets were throngs of people milling about, scuttling to and fro, buying/eating/drinking/watching/talking/standing/walking, an environment only a night market can create. I bought a cup of watermelon juice, a perfect invention for thirst on hot summer days, and waddled through the night market in search of something to eat. The night market, like most in Taiwan, was centered around shops and vendors selling clothes, jewelry, accessories, and the like. Food wasn’t much to be found. I eventually wound up in a foreign owned Mexican restaurant. And against my philosophical digression about food above, I enjoyed the hell out of it. This was some of the best Mexican food I’ve had in a while, and whether this was due to my uncommonly stressed system, recent increase in dosages of Taiwanese food, or was genuinely good, I couldn’t tell you. But I can tell you that the chicken enchilada I had with rice and beans all topped with cheese and what the chef said was a new experimental sauce, was a culinary highlight of my trip, if only for the fact that it was something I hadn’t tasted in a while. Screw esoteric food-haters. This food was pleasure. If I drank alcohol, an icy Corona would have made it so much greater—but substituted apple juice served well enough. I read Walden and reveled in the aftermath of an enchilada slaughter. I think he would have been disappointed in me for my attainment of gratuity from food. I don’t care.

Soon after, I headed back “home” and decided to call it a night. I would have another long ride to KenDing the next day.

Day 3: Sandras House in TaiNan

lf to rt: son Bruce, daughter Sophia, Sandra, niece, sister

I awake to the bustle of their family. 8 people, 6 being female, can create quite a commotion. At 11AM, Ija offers to take me to her favorite place, the ChiaYi park. We ride off on her scooter and we spend a good time at the park. It is a historical park with buildings, artwork and statues scattered throughout. Many people populate the park as the day was sunny and warm. By the time we get back to eat lunch, it's already 2PM. I ice my achilles and take a rest. I pack and get ready to go. I say my goodbyes and thank you's to her entire family. I am very grateful to have been a guest of such a wholesome family. Ija offers to take me to the #1. It's 4:30PM as we head out the door.
From ChiaYi to TaiNan I knew it would be a quick sprint. The actual destination was XueJia in Tainan County, a little ways from TaiNan city. I'm not sure what I averaged, but it felt like 27-28km/hr. That road, fairly straighforward, though I had to whip out the map once or twice, passed some beautiful towns and fields. The south of Taiwan is full of crops of various weight. Rice is a major product, but I saw field after field of onion, corn, fruit trees, garlic, sunflowers, and smaller interspersed fields filled with vegetables of all kinds. I arrived at about 7PM, approximately 2hrs later. I call Sandra and she says to meet at the large temple in town, and gives me directions. She comes a few minutes later on a motorcycle, brother at the helm. I am guided just down the street to their house.
When I arrived, and similarly with Ija's house, her family had already eaten. And again I was graciously welcomed by a large family. They were now about their post meal celebrations of Mahjhong and Wii. They set me up on the 2nd floor, I showered, washed my clothes and went downstairs. Sandra helped me get settled and I ate. She accompanied my as I ate, the victuals being quite similar in type and deliciousness as the previous night. I ate methodically and slowly. After finishing, I joined the rest of the party partaking of the evenings pasttimes. I am not too familiar with Mahjhong and know people who know people who get upset with incompetent players so I was a spectator. I did have my hand at a little Wii action, and did okay in bowling.
Sandra, the eldest, has two sisters and two brothers. Also present were her husband and two children, mother, father, and niece. 12 people all together, including myself.
I spent some time talking to her lively husband, who seemed to love to talk. His energy is childlike in its capacity and lightheartedness. He is from GaoXiung, and, with the aide of a map, elaborated on places I should see.
He mentioned that Sandra's father is a master sculptor, or was, and some of his works were in temples around Taiwan. He also said the he once asked her father to teach him and he declined, saying he didn't think he would be serious about it.
I told Sandra about this and she laughed. She also mentioned that her father owned a very valuable teapot. It was worth a lot of money because it was the product of a teapot master. I later learned that it was given to him by a friend and someone had offered $200,000NT (about US $6000) for it! I was amazed that a teapot could call such a price tag.

valuable teapot

I had the opportunity to see it and from my untrained eye, looked just like the teapots you can by from the $10NT store.
I retired at about 12:30, planning on leaving early the next afternoon, and expecting to meet up with friends in GaoXiung.

lf to rt: Bruce, Sophia, niece

Day 2: Ija's House in ChiaYi

lf to rt: Ann, mother, Ann's daughter, sister, Ija

I wake up at 10PM and say to myself, "There's no way I'm making it to TaiNan (about 150km) today. Too tired." I call my friend Knight who is staying in YunLin with girlfriend Kim, only about an hours ride away. I see about staying there tonight. Negative. They're heading back to Taipei today. I search for options and think of my friend, Ija, in ChiaYi, about 100km away. She says cool. I ask her to help me to kind a hotel so when I get there I won't have to search for one. I also call Sandra, my friend, who lives in TaiNan county. I make arrangements to stay at her family's house the following night (Day 3).
I say my goodbyes and thanks to Timmy, who had been a great host, and set off for Chiayi at 2:20PM.
This ride was easier than the first leg in that it was shorter and pretty well flat. On the way out of the city, I ask a father/son duo, for directions to provincial road #1. They guide me and are very nice, as has been everybody I've yet encountered. It always adds time and distance getting into and out of cities.
Back on the 1, I feel at ease again. Straight forward and smooth. I break several times to rest, eat, stretch and take some pics. The sun starts to fall, then slowly fades under the horizon. I still have several hours of riding, now in the dark. I don't mind I guess. I have no choice. During this ride, I begin to have pains in my Achilles tendon, which would stick with me for the rest of the trip.
There are several advantages to riding at night. There are less cars, it's quieter, and cool. I also feel like I'm going faster. But it can be dangerous as cars may not see me. I align myself towards the specs of light in the distance and use the ubiquitous white line as my guide. My little lamp only providing enough light to have known what I fell into, after falling into it.
I get to ChiaYi about 4 hours later, after several calls and confirmations with Ija. She invites me to her house, where her family just finished a New Years dinner. The food still sits out when I arrive, for me I presume.
In enter to a lively welcome. A cozy living room deceivingly embraces many smiling faces and lots of love. I only know Ija and her entire family is present, mother, father, three sisters, father-in-law, baby, and now me. They all welcome me to sit and have some food. The traditional Taiwanese New Year fare is spread on the table: steamed and fried fish, rice noodles, just caught shrimp, wonderful chicken soup, and much more sit and wait for me to eat it. I am a light eater, even after riding for hours, and take my time picking every now and then. I feel a little awkward at first as one always does in such situations, but it quickly melts into a wet comfort from the warmth of her family. They are very nice. I eat slowly, chatting with her family. Kung Fu Panda is on the set. I shower and feel much better, then get to know everyone better. Their house has a very relaxing affect, I feel like I had been there my whole life. Her father leaves to go play Mahjhong at a friends house. Mother retires to her room. I stay up until 3AM reading, taking picutres and talking with the four sisters. I mainly talk with Ija about hiking, camping and outdoor stuff. I allowed myself a late night because I knew the next day would be a shorter ride. But 3AM was late enough, so I pack it in.

Distance: TaiChung to ChiaYi 106km
Time: 4hrs. 40min.

Day 1: Timmys House in TaiChung

Timmy with Savanna

I feel tired but in a state of euphoria at his place. I have never done physical exercise (besides breathing) for such a long time before. I am amazed that I did it and reached my destination. I settle down. Timmy says he's going to a friends place and I am invited. I decline saying that I'm pretty tired. He sets me up on his computer and I watch a great movie called Slumdog Millionaire, as I eat my dinner. Superb movie enhanced by an equally astounding soundtrack. After the 2 hour movie, I get ready for bed.

I hate mosquitoes. It's not their bite (which is rather irritating), nor their alien-esque form. What I can't stand is their insistent buzzing in my ear when I'm trying to sleep.
While at Timmy's house in Taichung, the mosquitoes had a Pearl Harbor on me. Zzzz! I flick on the light. Where are they? Five mosquitoes perched for attack on the wall above my head. I'm slapping, flailing, smacking and killing, thinking, it's gonna be a long night. After I quell the barrage, I turn off the light and get back to sleep.
Zzzz, zzzzz. Damn! Lights on. And then there were three... new ones, like ninjas packing deadly megaphones of buzz that is my kryptonite. They're after my blood, literally, and I hate them. I get my pink indoor slipper to gain swifter killing velocity, thinking I'll leave the dead on the wall as a warning. No dice. These buggars are smart and deftly flit out of the way as I approach, disappearing into the vast air of the room. After mastering round 2, I hope for no more. In vain, I turn out the lights and try to get some rest. Round 3 quickly ensues and I patiently create a mosquito graveyard around my bunker. They are cold-blooded persuers, taking no notice of their fallen brethren.
I finally devise a way to keep them at bay. I grab a shirt and wrap it around my head third-grade ninja style. I use the sleeve as a breathing hole, hoping that mosquitoes are smart enough not to try to bite my teeth. I can still hear them outside my force field and it works to keep me up for a while more, but I effectively put an end to their red bombs of itch. Now I can get to sleep... at 5AM.

Day 1 is the purple section.

View Larger Map

Ride success!

My third "first" day of my trip was a success.

I set out at bright and early at 6:40AM. Well I wouldn't say it was bright. In fact it teased rain for my entire journey, even managing to sprinkle a little on the way. Initially, I was going to stop at Miaoli, only (only) 108km from my house in Banqiao. But on Sunday I decided to go for it all. At least all of the way to Taichung.
The ride started out smooth. Cool, hovering between 15-16C, and overcast. Passed through Xinzhuang, Guishan, Taoyuan, Jhongli, PingJhen, Yangmei, Hukou... and on and on and on. I thought the trip would never end. After riding for 5 hours, I pulled over to piss. Legs and knees, aching, I pulled over and took a break. Step over step, km after km, I pushed on. I often found myself saying mundane things like, "I'm halfway up this hill, just keep going," or. "If I stop moving, I won't move again." Green signs, blue signs, white lines, over and over and over.
I noticed that Taiwan has a lot of red lights for no reason. The traffic would be sitting at a red, waiting for noone and nothing.
So I continued on my way 5, 6, 7 hours. Fortunately I had company along the way. Bikers also riding around woulg ride along side me and we would chat. "Where you goin?" Where did you start?" and the like. I would ask about distances and road conditions from them that seemed more knowledgeable. All the cyclers were very friendly, waving as they passed, or shouting some words of encouragement. This biking group is like a secret society, flashing the signs of recognition.
After finally reaching Taichung city, I headed to my friends place, who I had contacted the day before. Going to his house added another hour to my trip at least.

Final stats for day 1 Taipei(BanQiao) to Taichung:
Riding Time: 8hrs 51min
Total Time: 11hrs
Distance: 187km

Tomorrow will be even harder, not because the distance is further, but because my legs and ass hurt very much. The Trip is about 172km. Roughly the same distance. I hope I can do it. It is now 10:30PM and I should rest.
Wish me luck

Foiled Again!

Early this morning, while sleeplessly laying in bed, I read a message from Damon saying that he was again, backing out of our trip. Can't this guy make up his mind? Wants to go, doesn't want to go, wants to go, doesn't want to go... Jeezus. I laid in bed - this annoyment left to fester and make me angry. I called him to share with him my disgust, but (knowingly) he didn't answer his phone. I care not to write here what I wished to tell him. I am familiar with his mood and temperament, which actually should have been a clue to what he was capable of. I even told my girlfriend that I had a feeling that he didn't sound wholeheartedly into this trip, and that if he didn't want to go, he would find some way of getting out. But instead of listening to my intuition, I believed his false words and empty excuses, in the hope that he might actually surprise me. In my naivete, I was greatly let down by this so called friend. He made me change my plans several times, inconveniencing me (to say the least).
So now, I sit at my computer writing this rant while I should be riding my bike around Taiwan. I could have spent a nice long time riding (two weeks), enjoying the sights Taiwan had to offer. That was my initial plan. Then when Damon signed on, he said he only had 9 days for his Chinese New Year vacation, so I rearranged my plans for him, which was fine at the time.
Now, I've wasted more than a week on his ass... What a let down. Maybe I am more disgusted than I should be, but I can't help it. If he would have just told me he didn't want to go, that would have been fine, but the excuses! Please! I try not to speak lowly of people and I hope I later regret writing this, but this is how I feel right now.

Final (tentative) plan is:

Day 1: TaiPei to TaiChung 175km
Day 2: TaiChung to TaiNan
Day 3: TaiNan to GaoXiung
Day 4: GaoXiung
Day 5: GaoXiung to KenDing (HengChun)
Day 6: KenDing to TaiDong
Day 7: TaiDong to Hualien
Day 8: Hualien to YiLan
Day 9: YiLan to Taipei

Trip Around Taiwan Day 1

Today was supposed to be day 1 of my bicycle trip around Taiwan. However, yesterday, my partner Damon messaged me saying that he might be backing out. The day before our scheduled departure. This was a let down. But then I thought of the advantages of going alone. I could take my time, take different routes and see things he might not want to.
I called him this morning and sounded like he stayed up late. He said that he was back in, but we would be starting a day later. This made me relieved because going alone also has many disadvantages. Going as a team will be much safer and enjoyable to have someone to converse with.
All in all, I don't mind going a day late. It gives me a little more time to prepare and ready myself to the long trip ahead.

Here is the map and route I plan to take.

Itinerary:

D1: Taipei(Banqiao) to Miaoli
D2: Miaoli to ChangHua
D3: ChangHua to TaiNan
D4: TaiNan to GaoXiung
D5: GaoXiung to KenDing
D6: KenDing to TaiDong
D7: TaiDong to HuaLien
D8: HuaLien to YiLan
D9: YiLan to Taipei

My Trip Around Taiwan

A friend and I are planning a trip around Taiwan on our bicycles. From what I hear, many people do it, so its nothing new. But for me, it will be a very long tour. Our time frame is Chinese New Year's vacation. We will try to do as much as we can in 9 days. I hope the weather holds up for us. This will be a stretch for me, as the furthest I've ever ridden my bike is about 70km in a day. The first day alone is set for 130km, twice the amount I've done before. I will be posting here daily during our trip, providing I have access to a computer. Stay tuned. Two weeks and counting...

Hike at Shi Ding/Huang Di Dian (石碇/皇帝殿)

Another Sunday, another hike. This time to Shi Ding/Huang Di Dian (石碇/皇帝殿). This was a hike very similar to last weeks hike to Wu Liao Jian (五寮尖). This time, there were 6 of us. I like the fact that we are growing in number. Although it hadn't rained that day, some rocks and trail sections appeared slippery.

We pulled into the town of Shi Ding (石碇) at about 11:15AM. The town had a very similar feel to Wulai (烏來). A quaint village in the midst of lush green mountains, with a river running through it. It was bustling, people about everywhere. Hikers were out, spectators were out (there seemed to be a festival of sorts going on), and so were we. We quickly found some parking and started on our way.

First part: mounds of stairs. One after another. When you thought it was over, there were more, winding further into the thick. Stairs continued for about 20-30 min.

Once we got digging into dirt and root, it was identical to Wu Liao Jian. Almost no distinction.

It was a fun hike equal in difficulty to Wu Liao Jian. Going on the first hike last weekend got me interested in rock climbing. On this excursion, I tried to clamber up rock faces, but found that my hiking boots were too bulky and cumbersome to get a hold on the somewhat smooth surfaces. I may get a pair of climbing shoes.

Sunday Hike at Wu Liao Jian (五寮尖)

This Sunday a couple of friends and I went hiking. About an hour south of Banqiao, we stopped at a trail head. My friend said that this trail was difficult, with steep accents and ropes. Sounded fun. The weather was perfect for hiking: overcast and cool.

We started a bit after noon and quickly realized that it was steep and going to be for the entire trail. Not rock climbing (yet), by any means, but definitely mountain climbing. I had not done Crossfit exercises for the past three days, so a good workout was in order. We stepped high up steep grades gaining footholds on roots and rocks.

As we moved on, dirt paths turned into rocks, which made for great bouldering. We walked along razor edge cliffs and made death-defying tip-toe stunts. One slip probably would mean death. The deafening intensity juxtaposed the humbling and quiet scenery.

Out of the city, you realize how peaceful it is and how easy it is to feel nature. Where in the city it might take 20 min to return your sense of peace, now a couple of deep breaths was enough. This was an experience like I've never had before.

Out of breath at the top, with breathtaking views. Legs taut and burning, continuing through narrow tracks, up and down rocks, rope-assisted accents and descents, seemed to no end.

It was a test of balance and endurance, mixed with comeraderie and fun. We went up and down in about 5hrs.

This was a great way to hone and demonstrate skills gained in Crossfit exercise.

A Sign

I had a wonderful experience yesterday.

Lately, I have been going to a local bike shop (Hersan's Bike Shop) to get tune-ups and whatnot's for my bike. The patrons mentioned that they go on weekly rides early Sunday morning, led by Hersan himself. I decided to join them this past Sunday, not really knowing what I was getting into.

Starting at 6:30AM should have been the first sign. Usually at 6:30, I have been sleeping soundly for about 4 hours and looking forward to another 5, not rudely waking myself up for a ride. However, I told myself that I would join this tour, as it were, and try to gain some biking experience.

When I arrived at 6:30AM (I was told promptness was imperative), they were pulling away from the storefront. They, decked out in full lycra gear, riding road bikes, looked speedy and zoomy. I, on the other hand, was wearing surf shorts, straddling my mountain bike. Sign two.

They started through the roads and I was keeping up. Little did I realize that I was keeping up due to the red traffic lights. Sign 3: you don't actually see the people you are riding with. Once we hit the river trails, they were gone. Literally out of sight, I was left thinking, "It's 6:45AM and these guys left me. What am I doing?! I'll head back home and back to sleep." But for some masochistic reason, I continued on. Hersan, possibly used to newbies' slow pace, fell back and urged me on. I think there was another guy behind me, but when you're playing catch-up on a bike, you're not really thinking.

Luckily the group stopped (out of pity?) every once in a while to rest and consolidate (and to take pictures of the laggards for their album of laughs, I'm sure). We rode on past through Muzha, past the zoo, to a hive of biking activity. I'm not sure exactly where it is, but it is an intersection marked with a 7-11 and road signs that should read "steep hills, it's too early, go home." Instead, it says, Pingshi and some other far off destinations. Bikers of all sorts congregate here, as it is the starting point for the challenging and fun rides on bicycles as well as motorcycles.

By this time, we had been riding for about an hour and I was tired. Little did I know that we had just begun the ride. Uphill we went for what seemed like eternity, my legs and back and ass hurt, as did my pride. I mean some of these guys were pushing old age, and they could lap me in their sleep. Hersan must have been able to sense that I was a weak link.

I am not proud about what I am about to say, but Hersan (or Heman) actually pushed me up the hills. On his bike, he rode at about my 8 o'clock, right arm on my lower back, forcing me up the mountain of hell. Another skillful rider, who would switch with the push-the-bitch-up-the-mountain duty, sometimes worked in tandem with Hersan to push me up. I felt like a fool and at times wanted to get off and walk.

But I thought to myself, "These guys are pushing this fool, whom they don't even know, up a mountain and probably hate this fool, but aren't giving up, so how can this fool give up?" "This fool," being me, also had thoughts of wanting to die, to ride off the cliff, and other escape tactics the self-preservation voice usually keeps you from doing. I think that voice was tired.

The uphill was only 5km. But it felt like forever. After every turn, I would see more up, a turn, then more up. Occasionally I was able to peek at the beautiful scenery but would instantly feel guilty taking pleasure in the sights while these Taiwanese Sherpas pushed my ass up the inclines.

"Almost there," Hersan kept on saying. "Almost there."

I kept on pedaling, moving my feet in small circles hoping to get up and over this climb.

"Only 4 more km," he would say. "3km."

Then it was two, and then one. Then it was, even, I mean level road which at this point, still hurt to ride. Eventually, we ran into the others, gleefully sipping their water and eating crackers, almost falling asleep waiting for us. I did not feel shame. I did not feel self-conscious at all. I did not feel a thing.

Except the burning in my ass. Struggling up that hill was torture and the repeated motion had been effectively grinding my ass into my seat.

But from what I collected, we would now have the dessert: downhill. All that time going up, naturally we must go down, and down we did go. Zooming down on early morning mountain roads is a cool rush after such an ordeal as I have just described. I felt high, zooming past small shops that I now had the consciousness to notice.

People seemed nicer, nodding to me as I passed them, as if somehow I had gained champion status by coming down as they were on the way up, as if, knowing that I had made it to the top before them, I was a hero in their eyes, as if they knew the joy of coasting down after a long ride up, as if we shared, if for a moment, the bond that bikers share, as if they didn't know I had been pushed up by my faithful leader. Which of course they didn't, so I waved back as if I was the champion they thought I was. What a way to end a ride!

But it wasn't over. After kilometers of refreshing turns and cool mountain breeze drying my hard-earned sweat (and I'm sure the sweat of the hands that aided me), I was riding past Wulai and into Xindian, brought back down to reality and pedaling for motion again. Hersan told me the others would be separating on their way home. He invited me to join them next time. I thanked him genuinely as he rode off into the sun.

The heavy weight that reality gave to my legs kicked in the search for other options of getting home. Being familiar ground, I knew that Xindian had many MRT (subway) stations that I could conveniently dip into and ride on home. Again, I had no shame; no embarrassment. Nobody knew what happened up in those cold lonely mountains, two sweaty chest-heaving men, sometimes three. Pride no longer a consideration, I wanted to travel path of least resistance. I paid my 80NT, hopped on the train and was home bound.

~~~~~

Today, I feel fine, legs a little sore, and so is my pride. But I realized some things.

One, I am not as in shape as I thought or should be. Boy was I mistaken when I thought I was good at biking. I have much to learn and loads of endurance to gain. I am a shame to myself.

Two, Hersan was willing to help someone he barely knows. Not just help, but physically push them up a mountain. I can see no reason except a pure love of what he does. He has such passion for biking and therefore the people that bike, that he does so much for them. When I go to his shop, he will do repairs for nothing. I offer money, but he refuses.

Three, signs come in many shapes and forms. Whatever package, if you are paying attention, you get the message. Hersan's kindness and selflessness has shown me than I too, should try to help others.

Four, that if the world has people like him, then all is not lost. That it is worth working for. For every person doing intentional harm to others, there are those fighting the good fight, in their own way, be it stopping corruption, finding ways to lessen CO2, working in a food kitchen, providing aid to disaster sufferers, or pushing some clueless waiguoren up a mountain on a Sunday morning.

P.S. If you are ever in Banqiao, I highly recommend you visit his shop (if you read Chinese, go here) His shop is listed on Formosan Fat Tire, a foreign-made Taiwan bike website.

P.S.S. Hersan is in the forefront in the white jersey in the above picture. I am near the dog, leant over seeing if my balls are still intact.